OLD OTTAWA EATS

Dining Out!

Quietly serving some of Ottawa’s best Greek food

 

Family-run Greek Souvlaki Shack in Centretown has built a loyal following through word of mouth and consistent cuisine

 

 

QUINN ABUGOV

Tucked into a modest stretch of Bank Street in Ottawa’s Centretown, the Greek Souvlaki Shack is the kind of place you might easily walk past without noticing. There is no flashy signage or grand exterior to draw you in. Instead, this small, no-frills eatery has built its reputation quietly since opening in 2010, relying almost entirely on word of mouth. As it turns out, that quiet confidence is well-earned, and after one visit, it is easy to understand why so many locals keep coming back.

Inside, the space is intimate, indeed “spartan,” a playful nod to the Greek theme, with about seven tables for dining in. When we visited on a Wednesday evening in late May, the “Shack” was not full, but it was busy. A steady flow of locals dropped by to pick up takeout, and the occasional delivery driver added to the pace. It felt like a true neighbourhood spot, the kind of place people return to regularly and recommend to friends without hesitation.

That sense of familiarity is rooted in the family behind it. The Tsigos family clearly take pride in what they do. During our visit, Terry Tsigos, the owner, mentioned that while the family is originally from Montreal, they have been part of Ottawa’s restaurant scene since the mid-1980s. His father owned the Rose Bowl Steakhouse on Carling Avenue, a local staple for years. Today, the next generation is involved as well, with Tsigos’s son, now in his 20s, running the kitchen most evenings. “He grew up in the business, helping me from a young age and learning the craft firsthand,” says Tsigos proudly.  His wife and daughter also pitch in regularly to keep the business running smoothly.

The menu is refreshingly simple, focussed on classic Greek dishes done right, alongside a daily specials board. On the night we visited, the specials included a lamb shank, fried saganaki, and homemade cheesecake. Although tempting, we chose to sample a variety of regular menu items to get a fuller picture.

We started with dolmades, which were excellent. The grape leaves were tender and served warm, wrapped around a rice filling that was flavourful without being oily. Next came the loukaniko, a grilled Greek sausage sliced for sharing. It was well-seasoned, neither oily nor greasy, and satisfying. The owner mentioned it is sourced from Montreal, and the quality showed.

The Greek fries were another highlight. Hand-cut and cooked to a crisp golden finish, they were topped with feta and mozzarella cheeses and were an easy-to-share twist on the conventional poutine.

For our mains, my dining partner went with the low-carb lamb skewer plate. The lamb was cooked perfectly to medium and packed with flavour, served on a large Greek salad with a hefty dollop of tzatziki. He found the raw onions a bit too plentiful and strong for his taste, and next time he’ll  adjust his ordering.

I chose the chicken skewer signature platter. It came with a well-cooked skewer, lemon potatoes, rice, a Greek salad, and its own generous portion of tzatziki. Everything was prepared well, with the potatoes standing out in particular. It was a simple, satisfying plate that showed the kitchen’s consistency and attention to detail.

Indeed, consistency was a theme throughout the meal. Every dish delivered, which is not always the case when dining out. It is clear the focus here is on doing a smaller number of dishes and doing them well, rather than trying to offer too much.

We finished with the baklava, which may have been the best either of us have tried this side of Athens. Covered in a cinnamon-forward syrup and layered with crunchy nuts, it struck a perfect balance without being overly sweet. In a nice touch, the owners served up two portions for the price of one, a gesture that reflected the welcoming, generous nature of the place.

We left full, happy, and already planning a return visit. The Greek Souvlaki Shack may sit in a part of Centretown that is sometimes overlooked, but it is businesses like this that keep the spirit of the area alive. A true hidden gem on Bank Street, and one that had us saying Opa! on our way out.