Hawaiian comfort food finds a home in downtown Ottawa

Lyon’s Hawaiian BBQ combines Asian and Polynesian influences in hearty plates made for hungry, adventurous, budget-conscious diners.

QUINN ABUGOV

In a city known for shawarma, poutine, and an ever-growing array of international cuisines, it’s not often that you come across something truly unique. Tucked away on the corner of Lyon and Gloucester streets in downtown Ottawa, Lyon’s Hawaiian BBQ offers exactly that, what appears to be the City’s only dedicated Hawaiian food experience.

Lyon’s Hawaiian BBQ is a modest operation that embraces a no-frills approach, right down to its shared space with the well-known Asian Fusion kitchen, Angry Dragonz. The dining room is small and quaint, seating perhaps 15 to 20 people at most. Takeout containers and plastic cutlery make it clear that this is a restaurant built with takeout in mind, but the space is clean, welcoming, and surprisingly comfortable for those who decide to dine in.

For many Canadians, Hawaiian cuisine remains something of a mystery. In reality, it is one of the world’s great fusion foods, blending influences from Japanese, Korean, Polynesian, Chinese, and American culinary traditions. It’s the kind of cuisine where you can order barbecue meats, fried wontons, fresh seafood, and even Spam Musubi, a beloved Hawaiian snack consisting of grilled Spam atop rice and wrapped with seaweed.

The restaurant specializes in one of Hawaii’s most iconic culinary traditions, the plate lunch. Found across the islands, these hearty meals typically feature a protein accompanied by two scoops of rice and a scoop of macaroni salad. It is simple comfort food designed to satisfy hungry diners, and Lyon’s has built its menu around this concept.

My dining partner and I began our meal with an order of Crab Rangoon. While not traditionally Hawaiian, the dish fits nicely within the islands’ multicultural food culture. The freshly fried wontons arrived hot and crispy, packed with cream cheese and crab filling. Rich, crunchy, and highly addictive, it was an excellent starter and a reminder of why this appetizer has become increasingly popular among food lovers and social media influencers in recent years.

For my main course, I ordered the Chicken Combo. The generous plate featured Chicken Katsu, grilled Hawaiian chicken thighs, a scoop of rice, macaroni salad, and vegetables. The Chicken Katsu was the standout. The breading was perfectly crisp, while the homemade barbecue sauce added a sweet and savoury kick that made each bite memorable. The grilled chicken thighs were tender and satisfying, though slightly less flavourful than the katsu. The rice and creamy macaroni salad helped balance the richness of the meats, creating the kind of hearty meal that Hawaiian plate lunches are famous for.

Perhaps the most impressive part was the value. At less than $20, the portion size was tremendous. In an era when restaurant prices continue to climb, finding a filling and satisfying meal at that price point feels almost like discovering buried treasure on Waikiki Beach.

My dining partner opted for the Hawaiian Mix Plate, selecting grilled Hawaiian chicken, Kalbi Ribs, and Hawaiian barbecue beef along with two sides. While the flavours were enjoyable, he found the beef dishes somewhat tough. Still, the portions were generous, and the fact that he finished every bite suggested the meal remained enjoyable despite the minor shortcomings. For roughly $20, it was difficult to argue with the value.

Throughout our visit, the spirit of “aloha” seemed present, even in this small Ottawa storefront thousands of kilometres from the Pacific Ocean. The service was friendly and attentive, and there was a constant stream of delivery drivers picking up orders, a strong indication that the restaurant has developed a loyal following in the downtown core.

Lyon’s Hawaiian BBQ may not offer ocean views, palm trees, or ukulele music, but it does provide something increasingly valuable, a unique culinary experience at an affordable price. For anyone who has visited Hawaii and misses the flavours of the islands, or for adventurous diners simply looking to try something different, this hidden gem is well worth a visit. Ottawa’s food scene is at its best when small businesses introduce residents to cuisines, they might never otherwise experience, and Lyon’s Hawaiian BBQ does exactly that, one plate lunch at a time.