Sandy Hill’s newest hotspot hits the sweet spot

Dinette Atomique pairs diner classics with Vietnamese influences and an inviting retro aesthetic

QUINN ABUGOV

   On a Tuesday evening in early May, my dining partner and I made our way to Dinette Atomique in Sandy Hill, eager to try one of Ottawa’s newest dining spots. Just eight months after opening, the restaurant has already built a loyal following and attracted plenty of rave reviews. It didn’t take long for us to see why. From the moment we walked in, we were struck by both the charm of the space and the promise of a carefully crafted dining experience.

Dinette Atomique occupies a location on Somerset Street East at the corner of Blackburn Avenue with some local history. It was most recently home to a Caribbean restaurant and, before that, the long-standing Sandy Hill Bar and Grill.

   The current iteration feels like a complete reinvention. While the space is intimate, it is also surprisingly expansive, with interesting pockets of seating tucked throughout like a rabbit’s warren. An open kitchen adds a sense of energy, while a small bar area and TV screens playing classic shows from the 60s, 70s, and 80s lean fully into the retro diner theme.

  The decor is one of the restaurant’s more compelling features. The room is filled with trinkets, keepsakes, and collectables the owners have clearly been gathering for years. They lend the space a warm, lived-in feel that invites you to take in your surroundings while you dine. Together with the cozy layout and nostalgic touches, diners are immersed in an atmosphere that is both relaxed and engaging.

   Service was another highlight of the evening. Our server was knowledgeable, energetic, and clearly passionate about both the food and the restaurant. The menu blends classic diner fare with an Asian-inspired twist, reflecting the Vietnamese background of one of the owners, Vu Duong, who doubles as the chef.

   If two words can describe our dinner fare, they would be ‘fresh’ and ‘crispy’. We began with the spring rolls, which were outstanding. Full of flavour and crackling to the bite, they were served with a honey soy sauce that elevated the dish and made for a strong opening act to the meal.

   For mains, my dining partner chose the fried chicken with homemade slaw and a chive and cheddar biscuit. The chicken was delicious, light and, once again, crispy without being greasy, with a satisfying crunch. The biscuit was warm and fresh, somewhere between a traditional buttermilk biscuit and a scone, definitely one of the best of its breed! The slaw was both crunchy and creamy without being heavy.

   I opted for the all-day breakfast, which arrived as a generous spread of house-made items. The biscuit once again stood out as a highlight, paired with perfectly cooked eggs, crisp bacon, and well-executed baked beans and hashbrowns. There were a couple of minor drawbacks, though. The sausage, while likely made in house, had a noticeable allspice flavour that did not quite fit with the rest of the dish, and the corned beef, though  unpleasant, was a bit fatty, somewhat dry and chewy.

  We finished with a slice of white chocolate macadamia nut pie à la mode, which was flavourful without being overly sweet. The real standout, however, was the maple pecan semifreddo. Rich, textured, and studded with bits of baked goodness, it may have been one of the best ice creams we’ve sampled in a long while.   

   Dinette Atomique made a strong impression, and we are already looking forward to returning, especially to try their weekly five course sharing feast, which looked to be delicious when we spied it being served at the neighbouring table.