A mixed plate at Masakali – some hits, some misses

Sometimes the most memorable part of dining out happens before the food even arrives.

QUINN ABUGOV

My recent visit to Masakali started with a humourous mix-up when my dining partner showed up at the restaurant’s ByWard Market location while I was sitting at the Wellington Street location, where I had actually made the reservation. After a few confused texts, a mad dash car ride across town, and a laugh at our own expense, we eventually got sorted out and settled in for dinner. Masakali also has a third location in Kanata-Stittsville, making it one of Ottawa’s more established Indian restaurant groups.

The restaurant makes a great first impression. The décor is a little on the fancy side without feeling stuffy. It’s bright, clean, and comfortable, and would work just as well for a casual dinner as a special occasion. Another good sign was the steady stream of takeout drivers coming through the doors. Seeing that much takeout traffic usually means the kitchen is doing something right.

I went into the meal with fairly high expectations. Several friends had recommended Masakali, and the menu certainly looked promising. It offers dishes from both North and South India along with a selection of Indo-Chinese Manchurian and Hakka dishes, styles of cuisine that have become increasingly popular in Ottawa over the last several years.

My dining partner and I shared four dishes, most of them around the $20 mark. Rice and naan were extra, but both were flavourful and generously portioned.

The first dish to hit the table was easily the best thing we ordered.

The onion bhaji was outstanding. Crispy strips of onion coated in chickpea flour were fried perfectly and paired beautifully with a fresh mint chutney. Light, somewhere between soft and crunchy, and not greasy in the slightest, this appetizer disappeared quickly and was an easy highlight of the evening.

Wanting to try something different, we also ordered the chicken Manchurian from the Hakka menu. Unfortunately, this one was a letdown. The portion size was generous, but the chicken itself was rubbery and a bit tough. The crispy coating quickly became soggy under the chili sauce, which lacked the bold flavour I was expecting. The best comparison I can think of is popcorn chicken that sat in sauce a little too long. Not terrible, but not something I’d order again.

For our mains, we chose two curries.

The first was the Navratan Korma, a vegetable-based curry served in a rich almond gravy. The vegetables were cooked well and the sauce paired nicely with the naan. While enjoyable enough, I kept waiting for a bigger flavour punch that never quite arrived. It was a solid dish, but not one that stood out compared with similar offerings elsewhere in Ottawa.

The stronger of the two curries was the Chicken Lababdar. Rich, comforting, and full of flavour, it delivered what I was looking for from an Indian curry. The chicken was tender and properly cooked, while the sauce worked perfectly with both the rice and naan. While it may not be the best curry I’ve had in the city, it’s definitely one I’d recommend.

Service throughout the meal was quick and friendly. Our food arrived promptly, and staff were attentive without hovering around the table.

What makes Masakali difficult to rate is the inconsistency between dishes. The onion bhaji was excellent, and the Chicken Lababdar was very good. On the other hand, the chicken Manchurian missed the mark, and the korma felt somewhat muted. Given the restaurant’s strong reputation and the recommendations I’ve received from friends, I’m willing to believe this may have been an off night or simply a case of ordering the wrong dishes.

Would I go back? Yes. The menu is large enough that there are still plenty of dishes worth exploring, and next time I’d probably lean on the restaurant’s recommendations.

In the end, Masakali offers a pleasant dining experience in a nice setting with good service, but at its price point, I think there are a few Indian restaurants in Ottawa that deliver more consistent flavour.

The onion bhaji alone is worth ordering, and the Chicken Lababdar is a solid choice. While some dishes fell short of expectations, there’s enough potential here to make me consider giving Masakali another try.